Saladin's Castle & the 3:40 Local to Aleppo

Alden awoke well rested from a night of deep Tylenol PM induced slumber and checked out of "Hotel Riad" with the goal of seeing Saladin's Castle. A quick taxi ride to the minibus station, and the adventure of finding the correct "service" to Al Haffa. It didn't take too long, and for about 40 American cents, Alden was off to a wee little town 45 minutes outside of Latakia.

Arriving in Al Haffa, Alden (the only non-Syrian on the servica) was quickly bombarded by taxi drivers to take him to Saladin's Castle. They wanted at least 400 Syrian pounds (around 8 dollars) for the 7 kilometer drive, so Alden bluffed, and said, whatever, he would just walk there. This is difficult to bluff, since it was really hot already, and the walk is rather a gruelling down/up a huge valley. But then a guy on a motorcycles offered the ride for 100 syrian pounds. Sure, why not. So Alden hops on, and the motorcycle tears off like a bat out of hell. Then, just when Alden and his driver are far enough away from the town to make walking back a real hassle, the driver wants to renegotiate the price. First he says 200. (Note: It is very difficult to bargain or negotiate from the back of a motorcycles.) Then the driver wants 300 because he will need to wait for Alden to visit the castle. Given the precarious nature of the motorcycle speeding through the valley's switchbacks, Alden finally agrees to 300, if only to get the driver to please pay some damn attention to the road. Every few moments the driver would double-check that 300 would be the agreed fare, and Alden's only means of convincing him was with a further increase in volume. But motorcycles are fun, and Alden is ok parting with $6 to get to the castle (and back).

Saladin's Castle was simply amazing. Alden was the only tourist at the site, and he explored everywhere, especially the very dangerous-to-climb closed-off areas. The ticket salesman went back to bed after letting Alden in, so with this freedom Alden got to the top of every wall and tower he could.

Please note: http://www.theonion.com/content/news_briefs/going_to_tops_of_things?utm_source=onion_rss_daily

The castle overlooks heavily wooden ravines with some very steep drops; just incredible. An hour of sweating and photography and Alden was ready to head back to town. The price was again confirmed at 300, and then the driver wanted to talk politics... Speeding back to town, the driver listed the Georges that he liked, even though he didn't care much for George W. Bush. George Foreman (of grill fame) was his favorite George. Alden couldn't really disagree with that.

Once back in Latakia, Alden went to the train station to purchase a ticket to Aleppo. Alden splurged and spent 70 pounds to ride in first class (about a dollar and a half...). This train ride was recommended by Alden's out-of-date Lonely Planet and several other folks Alden has talked with.

And indeed it was worth it. A four hour train ride through amazingly scenic northern Syria. It starts to look like southern Spain- very pretty- lots of little trees in a row, olives perhaps? The train left on time- two minutes early, actually- but Alden was of course at the station half an hour ahead of time. In Aleppo, Alden attempted to bargain down a room at The Baron Hotel, but this time his charm didn't quite work. So he settled for a rather nice clean room at the nearby "Tourist Hotel," which was highly rated by his out-of-date Lonely Planet. This hotel is in the (very classy...) tire district of Aleppo. Tires for cars, trucks, tractors, anything with wheels. But his room was in a quiet section of the hotel, and Alden brought a bunch of ear plugs with him, anyways. (Which is good, since most Syrians ascribe to the "Honk First, Break Second" style of driving.)

Once settled in his hotel, Alden began to seek out food. He found a hole in the wall joint that serves fried chicken and the best rice he has ever had, ever, to a primarily dishdasha wearing crowd. Alden witnessed double-digit health code violations, but dang, that chicken was GOOD.

Alden was then off to The Baron Hotel to get a drink. The Baron Hotel has had many notable guests over the years: T.E. Lawrence, Charles Lindbergh, Agatha Christie, and Alden's favorite Roosevelt, Teddy. And now Alden.