Sunday, July 13, 2008

Alden's old but still likes castles

Three days ago Alden turned 24 years old. He celebrated with dinner at a restaurant in the Christian quarter of the Old City. There was garlic bread, steak, crepes, ice cream, and wine and Arak. He then headed to a party, and eventually made his way home, but only after he met folks that were heading to Krak de Chevaliers the next day.

The logistics were hilarious and it is worth testing the patience of the reader:

Roll out of bet at 8 am, and head to Bab Touma to meet an Arabic classmate (near old city). 1st taxi wouldn't use his meter, second would. Alden met Nate at Bab Touma, but it took three taxis before one was will to use his meter to get to Pullman garage ("Meter broken" and "no meters on Fridays" are lies).

Also, it should be noted that it is impossible to find a sausage, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich in Syria, and Alden really needed one the morning after his birthday...

Catch bus at Pullman garage to Homs, Syria. Two hour bus ride to Homs. Take a minibus into town, and get the run-around for an hour before taking taxi back to the Homs garage. Alden and Nate needed a minibus to drop them off near Krak de Chaveliers, and no one was able to help Alden find a ride. Finally, a minibus takes Alden and Nate towards Tartus, and dumps them on the side of the highway, no castle in sight.

Alden's a little big to ride in these minibus taxis, so it was nice to be able to stretch, but less nice to be stranded on the side of a Syrian highway. But luckily Nate's friends, L&L were at a hotel relatively nearby, and they picked the two guys up and beat a fast path to the hotel (with bar) where Alden would stay.

Hotel Francis is at the top of a mountain that overlooks the valleys towards the sea. Stunning views with a pool (and a bar). The hotel was in a Christian and largely autonomus region of Syria. There is no central government (overtly, anyways). The road and irrigation are funded by the locals, and there are no police. Many of the families have family in America, and (for the hell of it?) put American plates on their cars (California and Texas have been seen in the past).

Into this gap steps Khasan, who is looks like he would have played on the line in college if Syria had American Football. Nate's friends L&L (one when to Alden's school, the other does IT work/runs the Syrian chicken industry) are good friends with Khasan. Khasan runs Hotel Francis (which has a bar), and is basically the Tony Soprano of the village. Alden et al. would be relaxing with Khasan, who would need to leave every once in a while "to solve problem."

It came out that Khasan had taken L&L bird hunting during their last visit to Hotel Francis, but L&L weren't very good shots. Alden mention he enjoyed shooting, and immediately Khasan requests Alden join him the next morning. L (of L&L) bets Khasan would beat Alden, Nate takes the bet.

The next morning Khasan drives Alden, Nate, and L&L out behind Hotel Francis (which has a bar) near a pond. Before Alden has even taken the safety off his Russian-made 12 gauge pump-action, Khasan has downed 3 birds! But Alden catches up, and with several thousand Syrian pounds on the table between Nate and L (of L&L), Alden and Khasan are tied at 6 birds each. (Alden couldn't take a few shots that he would have made b/c Khasan had to take a few calls on his cell "to solve problem.") With Alden and Khasan tied at 6-6, each only has one round left. Alden spots a small, fast, agile little bird and downs it! It is up to Khasan (who seriously resembles Tony Soprano in so many ways) to tie Alden with his last shot. But he misses! Khasan was a good sport about it, but nearly crushed Alden's hand when they shook to leave for Krak de Chaveliers...

Krak de Chaveliers:

There isn't much to say about Krak de Chaveliers. Basically, it was the coolest thing Alden had ever seen. Google it. It is amazing. T.E. Lawrence called it 'the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world.' And he was right. Those crusaders did not mess around.

After running around the most amazing castle in the world for a few hours (which only had a dozen or so other tourists visiting) it was time to head back to Damascus. This time Alden and Nate got a ride, with L&L.

It was a successful trip.

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