Safe and Sound, day one

Alden visited the embassy today. Fun times! He saw BKJ (pictured above)- they had dinner!

Alden just had a few beers with DK, HC, TS, and LL (an SA reporter from an American news agency). Then, at 10:45 pm some PSD boys were to take him back to the guest house (from DK's safe house) but they were confused and thought Alden was staying at the embassy. But they didn't know where his guest house was once they got to the embassy! So Alden and 3 PSD boys just spent 45 minutes racing through the streets of Kabul at close to midnight in an uparmored SUV, armed to the teeth, as they got an army ranger to give directions via cell. But the guest house was found after many u-turns and wrong ways up one way streets.

This was a serious adrenalin rush. It will take a moment for the Tylenol PM and jet lag crash for Alden to fall asleep. Big days ahead.

Tomorrow Alden moves to the 'burbs. This is safer and sounder than Kabul, insha'allah!

Wadi Mujib!

Alden went canyoning at Wadi Mujib today. He found it amazing.

Wadi Mujib is a fantastic narrow and very deep gorge that drains into the Dead Sea. It is in a nature reserve nearly a kilometer below sea level. The trail involved clamoring over rocks in a stream that varied from 1 foot to 5 feet deep. This "trail" was nearly entirely under water, and it ended at a 100 foot waterfall after 45 minutes or so of very leisurely walking. Good times, although Alden can't ever complain when he is running around in his silky patagonia boxers, sans pants.

Jordan is so dry his soaked tennis shoes were dry in just a couple of hours!

Next for Alden, it was up to Mt. Nebo by way of the Dead Sea Panorama. Pretty views all around. Mt. Nebo was from where Moses saw the Promised Land, and promptly died. While indeed breathtaking, Alden didn't die.

To get off of Mt. Nebo Alden took a cab with a true con artist of a driver. He first mocked Alden's beard, then attempted to get Alden's sister's phone number, because he "wants a Green Card to work USA" as a driver. Alden's sister shouldn't worry; he gave the driver Foxy's number instead. JK!

Dinner in the town of Madaba, (Humos Libani is making Alden fat), and then a local bus back to Amman. Less than a dollar for the 45 minute ride.

Tonight's Random Observations: Alden is terrified watching all the little European (and Chinese!) cars tempting fate, and oddly the cops are cruising around in huge Ford Crown Victorias or Chevy Trailblazers.

Alden is still not used to riding in the front seat of a cab. He ALWAYS wears a seat belt. (Woman, if alone, ride in the back.) Catching a cab near the bus stop isn't a good idea: Alden looks like a Gringo, and the cabbies try to rip him off. "Meter crazy" or "meter broken," yeah, Alden will just walk then, thankyouverymuch.

Alden is going to attempt to score shotgun for the drive up to Dimashq... and luckily he has a random family friend connection to help negotiate a fair price, inshallah!

Inshallah #1

Alden strolled up to the Syrian embassy this afternoon; he arrives at three o'clock sharp.  It is exactly 16 minutes away from his apartment on foot.  Dutifully producing his raffle ticket to claim his passport (and hopefully visa!), Alden was asked, "When were you told to pick up your passport?"  

Alden relies, "Today, after three o'clock." 

Alden recognizes the embassy staffer; it was the same one who had taken his application, passport, and blank money order last week.  The staffer glances at the clock, and notes how very exactly on time Alden has arrived.  He then retreats towards a phone and makes a hushed phone call in Arabic, mostly out of earshot.  Alden is really proud of himself when he recognizes his raffle ticket number being read in Arabic, especially since numbers aren't exactly his strong point.  

(Side note:  Alden needs to get better with numbers before attempting to bargain for a custom made dishdasha in Syria.  Oh yeah- Alden is totally getting a dishdasha!)

(Side note #2:  Alden has been wondering, is the expression, "Going native," offensive?  Because this is Alden's plan, but perhaps he ought not to use such colonial-era terminology?  Anyways, he is three weeks into a beard, and it is looking GOOD.)

Back to the story: the staffer returns to the window and informs Alden that his passport "ought to be ready tomorrow, Inshallah!"  

Literal translation: Your passport will be ready tomorrow, IF ALLAH WILLS IT!

Possible translation #1: We didn't get around to it... too busy enjoying Memorial Day BBQs! (Can't blame them- it was beautiful this weekend!)

Possible translation #2: We need a little more time to steal your identity to fund our proxy wars.  

Should Alden be worried?  We really hope it is option number one.  And it probably is...

Alden asked if he should return tomorrow morning or afternoon.  He was told, in a rather confused tone, as if there was any choice: "definitely afternoon."

This is the first of the probably MANY Inshallahs that Alden will hear this summer.  Alden needs to get used to the fact that many parts of the world do not operate on Alden's "Gringo Time."  So, Alden will try to get his passport again tomorrow, inshallah!